The decision to push south out of Challis was a good one. Just as we crest over Corral Creek Summit, there is an overlook I want to show the guys. From this vantage point you can fully see the valley from the North from where we came and the thunderstorms we have conveniently avoided. Across the valley we are looking at the Pasimeroi Mountains of the Lemhi Range.
North
South
The welcome blue skies to the south. We load up and point our bikes towards the blue like it’s our north star.
The run into the basin via Burma Road is a fun one … the road is smooth with lots of flow where you can simply stand on the pegs and guide the bike with minor weight shifts. Once off the Burma Road you’ll run up to the Copper Basin Guard Station. From there will be the start of the Copper Basin Loop Rd, a fast-riding strip across high desert with six bikes leaving behind dusty con trails.
Copper Basin
Once in the basin we have a few choices on where we want to end up. Being Sunday, most of the weekend traffic has already cleared out.
We circumnavigate the basin ultimately landing at the developed campground located at the apex of the loop. We roll through the campground to find it completely empty. Tables to spread out our gear, bathrooms and a stream for the guys to fish …. sold.
We setup camp and settle in for night three.
I’ve been using a new water filter this trip … it’s a water bottle style from a company called Grayl. This filter is a unique concept where the bottle separates into two parts. You pull out the filter assembly from the top and fill the bottom by simply dipping into the water source. To filter you press the upper section back on and press it down like a coffee press. I’ve found this system to be very convenient, and I’ve always got a full water bottle in camp.
Everyone spreads out selecting their own camp spot, completing camp chores and hitting the creek for some fishing. Our pace thus far has been great. We haven’t been forced to early rise due to having to log miles. We’ve been able to keep our riding to about 5 hrs a day putting us in camp between 3-5pm. This pace has allowed us to enjoy other aspects of our trip and surroundings, more so than just riding motorcycles, a great balance making the trip much more relaxed and enjoyable.
We conclude the evening with more stories and drink around the campfire.
Our night 2 camp was along Yankee Fork Creek smack in between the Yankee Fork Dredge and the Custer Ghost Town. Part of what had caught my eye as we were riding by this spot was the possible fishing water behind camp. This ended up being a great little spot as Jeremy was the first to land a nice Idaho Trout.
Thunderstorms had rolled through earlier in the day leaving a damp layer over the camp. This provided a safe setting to get a campfire going. Nothing much better than preparing dinner at the end of the day next to a warm campfire! Chit chat and banter proceeded for the next few hours until the pull of the sleeping bag was simply too strong.
My shelter of choice on this trip is a 2 person REI Quarter Dome. The Quarter Dome is a lightweight Sil-Nylon tent and fly designed specifically for the backpacking space. After all that is basically what we do … backpack from adventure motorcycles. Our performance needs are similar in that we need lightweight and compactable gear that will still perform in adverse conditions. As a changing and entry mat I use my OBR Flat Mat. While the Flat Mat is intended for making a trail side repair workspace, I find it also doubles nicely for a changing pad or entry mat for your tent.
Made in the USA
The humidity was a bit higher the second night due to the previous day’s intermittent rain showers. This made for a slightly cooler night’s sleep with all of us waking up to dew-soaked tents and gear. Luckily, we awoke to clear skies and a rising sun. We all promptly started to layout our damp gear for the sun to start the drying process.
With coffee again consumed, our gear finally dry and bikes packed we all started to individually depart camp minutes apart of one another with the plan to meet at the Custer Ghost Town. However, when I went to start my bike to warm up, I was greeted with that familiar click-click sound. Our modern motorcycles are sensitive to voltage, and my battery has just given me a sign of weakness. My level of concern is at a zero other than I’m annoyed that I need to now remove my dry duffel to access my battery with a starter pack I always carry. Connecting my starter pack I again press the start button…click-click … After inspecting I soon realize that the starter pack is inconveniently malfunctioning … concern meter is now slightly elevated. Maybe to a 3.
Luckily Brent was still in camp and shortly thereafter Toby rolls back in with his starter pack. A quick swap of the starter pack and my bike started right up. Crisis adverted and we all re-group down the road in Custer.
Custer
Bike warmed up
Sean, Jeremy and Brent … at the Empire Saloon. Toby and Todd were taking the tour.
I’ve been through Custer a few times already, so we allow time for those in the group who want to mill around. 30-40 minutes later we have the bikes fired and we are now heading down the Custer Motorway towards Challis.
The Custer Motorway is a fun single lane track that stretches about 35 miles between Custer and Challis. The road runs through meadows, along creeks, past old stage stops and over a summit.
The Old Mill and Cemetary
The Motorway
Intermittently along the Motorway there are marked locations of old stage stops. The stage stops would have allow stop over points for distant past travelers. Ironic that what now takes us only a few hours, was previously travelled in a couple of days. The Motorway was also one of the early toll roads exacting their fee for the passage of labor and supplies.
Eleven Mile Barn
Keeping it tight
Once reaching the eastern terminus we cross Corkscrew Grade … then make a decent into Challis where we will fuel the bikes, grab some lunch and buy some refreshments for when we find camp.
During lunch I suggest an alternate to our original plan. Originally, we were going to head north into Montana and take the Magruder across to Elk City. Review of the weather radar is showing the possibility of moderate to heavy thunderstorms … not to mention there is little opportunity for fishing.
So, we head south … along Hwy 93 skirting the Lost River Range. We’ll connect with the Burma Road and ride that up over into Copper Basin where it is typically dryer and has a couple of creek options to wet a line.
Burma Road, climbing out of the valley
Viewpoint, North from where we came and then South
I believe this decision to be a good one … we were able to stay just to the south of the pending thunderstorms and Copper Basin did prove to be a few degrees warmer and much dryer.
My OBR ADV Gear Explorer Saddlebag System so far has performed flawlessly. The Holster keeps the systems 30l Dry Bags pulled in and tight. I’m currently running pannier racks from Tusk and using the Tusk Mounting Brackets. The Dry Bags have kept ALL dust and water at bay and so far, have proven to be very quick and easy to unpack and repack. The Explorer Dry Bags are designed to simply pull away from the Holster. This is a very convenient feature should you want to toss one of your dry bags into your tent or vestibule without detaching the entire system from the bike… I however chose to leave the Dry Bag on the bike and just tucked down the top lip before turning in to protect from any nighttime rain.
With the overlook being at the summit we push on over the other side and into the basin.
While visiting with a friend Toby, at the 25′ Touratech Rally I was invited on a trip that he was putting together for some of his buddies in Seattle. The idea was for them to come over and experience part of Idaho on their motorcycles. With an expectation of true adventure motorcycling, finding camps along the route that would also allow for some fishing and more importantly, experiencing some of the vast Idaho backcountry speckled with the mining history that is responsible for some of the routes that we so enjoy today. Toby asked if I could help with suggesting a loop …. my reply of course, absolutely!
The launch date was set for the end of July … this gave us a few short weeks to get our bikes prepped and set a route that would hopefully exceed everyone’s expectations. A few texts were sent back and forth, some containing .gpx route files, we set a final coffee meet to go over and finalize our planned route. Now, do keep in mind that no route is ever etched in stone … routes are always loose suggestions and very often will morph to best accommodate the rhythm of the trip, conditions and the overall mood of the group.
As the launch date neared, I was planning how I wanted to set up my bike for this trip. I would be riding my 2019 KTM 1090, a bike that has proven comfortable and reliable (per KTM standards). I would be running a full complement of OBR ADV Gear luggage, but plan on packing a bit differently for this trip. Normally I would pack my tent, chair and small table in a dry duffel that rides over the rear of the saddle. This trip I intended to pack food and clothing in the OBR 35l Dry Duffel and move the tent down to one of my Explorer Pannier Dry Bags. My intention was to have my tent share space with other parts of my kit like the chair, table, cook kit, etc that were not critical in the event they became wet. Thunderstorms are thing mid to late Summer. I had a separate stuff sack for my rain fly that would isolate the fly should it become dew or rain soaked but still would not affect the other kit stowed in that particular pannier. My sleeping system would reside in the opposite side so that it would always remain dry.
As usual the packing process took about three times as long as expected, but everything was packed and ready for an 8am departure the following morning. I am packing a gallon of water and fuel in a Rotopax. Neither would be used during the trip as we found water each night and fuel stops were all well within range. Better safe than sorry I guess …
Ready for battle!
8am came around quick … before I knew it, I was headed out of the garage with the plan to meet the group over on the east end of Boise. Our plan was to jump onto Blacks Creek Rd and work our way through Prairie, along the South Fork of the Boise River, along Anderson Ranch (Intersecting the IDBDR), Pine/Featherville and then over James Creek up and over to the Middle Fork of the Boise.
I connected with the guys over on the east end meeting for the first time Jeremy, Todd, Sean and Brent. Toby of course was leading them all in. Jeremy and Sean, I had met over at Touratech, but this will be our first on bikes.
The roads are your typical Idaho dry slick … that’s usually a layer of decomposed granite over hardpack with a few spots of sand thrown in. You need to make sure that your bike is properly balanced and be comfortable with the bike drifting a bit. Drifting is good as that is predictable. Tucking and washing not so much. We had one rider go down in a sandy section, but luckily, he was good to go with only a few scrapes on his bike and a small ding to his ego. Happens to the best of us. It usually takes a day for everyone to settle into their pace, find the right tire pressure and suspension settings. This trip will be no different.
ADV fingerprints
We made our way up through Prairie and down along the South Fork of the Boise. The rising temps warranted a quick stop at the river for a break and to wet down our riding gear for the expected warm stretch into Pine.
Pine would be our first fuel stop … probably not needed but never violate the golden rule of never passing by a fuel stop. Along with fuel, we stopped for a great lunch at a restaurant right next to the gas stop. (Make note if your ever in Pine)
Bikes and bodies fueled we continued up the road to Featherville. From Featherville we would turn north up to Rocky Bar. Rocky Bar is an old mining ghost town that over time has lost some it’s structures but not its charm. You used to be able to wander around the site, but it is now privately owned and pretty locked down. Still interesting none the less.
Rocky Bar
Headed up James Creek
James Creek is a primitive two track that runs up over the pass and down into the Middle Fork drainage popping out just below the small townsite of Atlanta.
“James Creek Road is a historic access route in Idaho, primarily connecting the mining towns of Featherville, Rocky Bar, and Atlanta. It was constructed as a way to supply the mining communities during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The road follows the historic route of freighters and mule skinners, providing access to the rugged Sawtooth Mountain area and featuring a monument at James Creek Summit commemorating these early pioneers, such as Peg Leg Annie.”
A small waterfall along the way, Elk Creek I believe … yep, a bit dusty
The summit, looking over to the southern tip of the Sawtooth Mountains
… and the Middle Fork of the Boise River below
With day one drawing to a close … fatigue is setting in and the idea of camp is foremost in our minds. We found a nice camp in the small Queens River Campground just a short distance down the road. We settled in, got cleaned up and relaxed for the remainder of day one.
The Magruder turns to dirt full time a short distance past Nez Perce Pass. Running alongside Deep Creek the road is a loose rock surface that kept the bike feeling a bit unsettled. Steady counter balance and light steering kept the bike tracking true and out of the ditch.
It wasn’t long before we turned south crossing the creek. At this point the road surface transitioned back to a more packed surface and we would start our climb upward out of the current drainage and onto the ridge that we would following for the next a many miles.
The early miles out of the Deep Creek drainage was in and out of a healthy stand of forest. Soon the trees give way to more open views and the trail side hilled along side a prior burn area.
Once up on the ridge we arrived at one of the most notable sites along the Magruder Road…. the Lloyd Magruder site details the tragic incident that took Lloyds life during a robbery. The robbers were eventually tracked down and paid for their crime, but the story does portray the some what lawless nature of the day.
The views along the Magruder Trail are exceptional. At the Lloyd Magruder site we were looking into vast distance of Big Sky Montana Peaks.
The Magruder isn’t overly technical. If you make it to the Magruder Site and are in relative comfortable with the road conditions you will not have any issues … barring any late season weather.
The day is running long and we are chasing the sun with the hopes that we will arrive at Red River Hot Springs before the dinner cut off.
The group spreads out to again preserve air filters and to allow each of us to enjoy our own individual experience along the trail. Stopping periodically to ensure that our group is still whole …. we make Red River HS with time to spare.
You might find some older reports of Red River HS and some bad reviews …. these were previous owners. The current owners are putting in a lot of hard work into the lodge and were a very pleasant couple. The gave us a pad alongside the pools which worked great for our tents. We had the pools to ourselves until they closed, which prepped us for a good nights sleep.
Rising the next morning we made our way into Elk City for fuel. These small communities are largely supported by tourism, so when you pass through make sure to stop for a nice meal and fuel. It will help to make sure that these resources remain in place for the next traveler or your next trip. Without these communities it would be increasingly difficult for us to complete these trips.
For the next few miles we blasted down Hwy 14 and the South Fork of the Clearwater. This section of Hwy was super fun! It’s another one of those two lane highways with endless twist and turns.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Eventually the fun of Hwy 14 came to an end and we turned south to traverse over the mountain, through Florence and eventually dropping down to the Main Salmon River.
Dropping down to the river was a stark reminder of the oppressive valley heat we were returning to. To delay this return we chose to make our way up and over the French Grade Switchbacks, through Burgdorf, and McCall.
The 2 hr ride from McCall to Boise concluded our trip. Approx 840 miles over three long days. This loop was remarkable and I feel blessed to have been invited along with such a good group of people. All bikes finished the trip with no issues and I was also pleased with the performance of my OBR ADV Gear Big Sky Tank Bag, Sherpa Tail Bag, and Crash Bar Bags. Each piece of kit did it’s job, never budged, and never interfered with me as the rider.
The intersection of 674 and 412 was a welcome arrival…. trajectory will point east now towards the city center of Yellow Pine. Combat fisherman now in my mirror … the pace picks up as I travel the 15 miles along the East Fork of the South Fork of the Salmon …. how many forks was that?
Rd 412
East Fork of the South Fork of the Salmon
Yellow Pine
Yellow Pine was established as a trading and supply point for the many area mines …. today, it acts more as a stopping point for recreationists and adventure travelers with an open restaurant, bar, lodging, etc.
One claim to fame each August for Yellow Pine is their annual Harmonica Festival that has gain national recognition.
Moving through the rush hour masses …. I continue North/Northeast along 412 to the Big Creek/Stibnite intersection.
This part of the route is currently part of the IDBDR. Turning north on 340 through Big Creek then will connect you over Elk Summit, Warren, Burgdorf then either into McCall of down French Creek into Riggins.
Today I continue East on 412 …
412 from this point is a surprisingly narrow two track given the mine traffic of the past ….
Fast with flow ….
9 miles pass and I arrive at the entrance of Stibnite. Cinnabar being my destination … I will make a left onto an ATV/Jeep track.
Stibnite Mine is not currently being worked other than reclamation and continued exploration. I’ve been told that they have been drilling old tailing piles from the past finding decent amounts of gold …. I carry my spare tube in an OBR ADV Gear Fender Bag. With this bags optional secondary snap system … I have never had it come loose.
